Charlottetown -> Pictou
I was sad to leave Charlottetown, I enjoyed it immensly but I knew I needed to keep going! Huge thanks to Nancy and Gareth for having me stay with them for my 2 nights on PEI I had a great time! I got to see Green Gables, the beaches and the red cliffs, what a beautiful province!
The ride to the ferry terminal was pretty short just over three hours and fantastic scenery so I enjoyed every minute of it. I got to the ferry terminal with plenty of time to spare so I relaxed and had a snack while I waited. The ferry was nice, pretty small compared to BC standards but had a cafeteria and seating upstairs so I read my new L.M. Montgomery book (yes I had to buy one after a visit to Green Gables) as we chugged across the straite.
From the Nova Scotia side I only had about 10km to go before I hit the town where I was staying. Pictou was small and picturesque except for the big plant across the bay which ruined the otherwise unobstructed view. I checked into a quaint old inn in the middle of town and then set out to look for something for dinner. Quite the spectacle was going on when I reached the street, a parade of fire engines all with sirens screeching! I still don't know what the occasion was but there sure were alot of them and they were LOUD. They looped around the town before heading off to scare the next neighbourhood! I found the restaurant which had been recommended to me by a local and headed in for a bite to eat. Another diner sight greeted my eyes and I chose the only veggie options on the menu, a veggie sandwhich and caesar salad. I guess maybe if you eat meat and your teeth are removable you might like this place but for me it was a dud. I finished quickly and headed back to my room for the night.
Pictou -> Truro
I left late in the morning to another drizzly day. Nothing much to talk about on the ride, pretty dreary cold day with not much to look at. I arrived in Truro before my host had returned home so had a tea in Tim Hortons while I waited. Not long after I was back on my bike heading for Matt's (couchsurfing host). A shower and a change of clothes and I was feeling much better. Matt and his roomate Omar were great company and we had fun exchanging stories and just hanging out. They got a kick of how squirmy I was once I found out the rat they had in a tank on the floor wasn't the pet but the meal for their pet python Monty. They assured me he probably wouldn't be eaten that night since he had already survived 5 days. Of course they were wrong and just minutes after I found out, the rat was in the belly of a very full snake! Yuck! I couldn't even look in the direction of the tank, snakes just aren't a particularly friendly or cuddly pet. Despite the snake in the corner I still had a decent sleep. I guess when you are tired nothing can really keep you awake at night!
Truro -> Halifax
The Last Day!!!!!! How amazing to finally be finished!!! It actually didn't really feel real, it still doesn't, just feels like another rest stop before i'm back on the bike. Maybe once i'm on the train heading home it will set in.
The ride was dreary to start with another misty day. The first couple hours weren't very fun except for the little local bakery I discovered with cookies still warm from the oven! They were a hit, I'd never had date cookies before but let me tell you they were delicious! The day picked up after the cookie stop and the clouds started to clear. By the time I was heading down into Halifax it was a sunny evening. I rode across the Macdonald bridge from Dartmouth into the city that was my final destination! I arrived at Therese's and of course quickly hopped into the shower. I had dinner with Therese and her boyfriend Adam and then we were joined by Wanda, the P4P coordinator, and Susie, a P4P rider from Nova Scotia. We had a good time exchanging stories about the different parts of the ride.
Yesterday I met Wanda for lunch at a local cafe before exploring the downtown a little. We then did a wrap up interview for the Sierraclub website, you can view it here. The interview was fun and classically Nova Scotia with the bagpipes in the background and it kind of finalized the trip for me! Now i'm down in Lunenburg staying at Wanda's farm for a few days. On Friday I will be taking the ferry from Yarmouth to Portland and from there making my way to Boston where I will take the train across the states to Seattle! I will be back on Pender on the 14th! 3 and a half months and a hell of a journey later!! Thanks for reading my stories, I hope you enjoyed them and learned a little something!!! xxoo
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Friday, October 2, 2009
Days 69-72 back to island life
Fredericton -> The middle of nowhere
I really enjoyed my stay in Fredericton both with Jessica and Anne. Big thanks to you both for welcoming me into your homes! After my rest day I set off feeling revived and especially energetic thanks to a hearty breakfast of wheatberry cereal and yogurt. I set off under drizzly skies and with the wind in my face. It was slow going but on the plus side the storm was getting pushed behind me and there were sunny skies in sight! I rode alongside the river and enjoyed the relatively flat road and the stunning fall colours! Just over half way I stopped for lunch at one of those convenience store/restaurant/gas stations that constitutes as a town in New Brunswick! There is where I began my overindulgent day with 2 slices of thickly buttered homemade delicious banana bread. Back on the road for jut a few minutes and I noticed a sign for homemade icecream coming up at the next exit. I deliberated stopping as I approached...I told myself if I could see the shop from the highway I would stop. If not I would continue on. When I reached the exit, no shop in view. So then I said to myself "well I will just take the exit and if I can't see it before the on-ramp I will just keep going" the on-ramp came and went and I was still on the quest. It was clear I was losing a battle with my tummy and so I turned the corner and just a few hundred metres down the road I saw the sign. It was homemade and it was delicious. I should have known I wouldn't have been able to pass a sign for ice cream! An hour after my impromptu ice cream stop and I had reached my destination of the day, another convenience store/restaurant/gas station only this time there was a motel too! Almost a city! Since I arrived so early in the day I treated my bike to a good wash down and even cleaned my chain! By the end I was filthy with grease but my bike was shining! I had a quick dinner and then headed over to the restaurant for dinner where the only vegetarian option was an egg salad sandwich. Less then satisfied with my dinner I had a large slice of carrot cake for dessert to make up for the fact and thus finished my day with another spot of indulgence but ohhh how it was worth it!
Middle of Nowhere -> Moncton
I took my time getting ready that morning as I had a short day ahead of me. Although, I was rather rudely awakened at 8 that morning by someone trying to barge into my room! Luckily I had deadbolted the door and after a few tries they gave up and I was able to go back to sleep for another hour.
It was drizzling again that morning as I set off but the torrential storm held off for the time being. About 30km down the road I noticed a distinct wobble on my bike which never warned of anything good and sure enough when I looked down I noticed that my front tire was flat! I pulled over and started pulling out my tools. As I did the heavens opened and it began to pour! Great timing! Then, to make matters worse I discovered that my pump was missing. I quickly threw everything back in my panier so it wouldn't get any wetter and started walking as I contemplated what to do. I hadn't seen an exit since I had started that morning so I thought there might be one coming up and fingers crossed it would have a gas station. 20 minutes later I was still walking, soaked to the bone, and no gas station in sight. That's when I noticed a car on the shoulder backing up towards me. When we were parallel the man inside unrolled his window to ask me if I wanted a ride. He probably thought I was nuts as I stood in the downpour and considered his offer. I hesitated and then asked how far it was to the next gas station. At this point the rain had reached monsoon levels and the drops were stinging as they hit my skin. He figured the closest gas station was about 30km away. I realized with a sinking sensation that unless I wanted to be walking till way past dark I was going to have to get in his car. I had to break my vow of a car free journey and take the ride. It was amazing how fast the distance was eaten up by the car. Travelling for so long by bike and a car felt unreasonably fast. John dropped me and my soaking gear off in Salisbury where I fixed my flat and had lunch while trying to decide if I had time to ride back to where I got the flat and then turn around and make it to Moncton before dark. Sadly I realized it was unfeasible and that I would have to forgo those 36km.
It continued to pour as I made my way to Moncton. I pulled up at Vincent's (my warmshowers host) looking very much like a drowned rat! A shower and the use of a dryer and I felt human again. We went to the Pumphouse Brewery for dinner and I had my first experience with blueberry beer, complete with real blueberries floating in it!
Moncton -> Sackville
First thing first! I went straight to a bike shop to buy a new pump! I did not want to have a repeat of the stranded situation of the day before!
The ride to Sackville was uneventful and slow. I was battling a ferocious headwind but at least the sun was shining. I arrived at Emily's (my couchsurfing host) around 2pm and the two of us spent the afternoon cooking a vegetarian moussaka for dinner that night. To be honest Emily mostly cooked and I mostly talked but I will take credit for the custard which I diligently stirred for an hour straight before it finally cooperated and set. It was fun to be in a houseful of students again and I missed school just a little bit until they all dissapeared back into their bedrooms to work on papers while I popped a movie in the DVD player :)
Sackville -> Charlottetown
The ride started with a few dead ends that morning thanks to my GPS misleading me. Eventually I found my way across the highway and onto the road heading north towards the bridge. I stopped for a second breakfast in Port Elgin, the last town before the bridge. I ordered the breakfast special but made sure to let the waitress know I didn't want any meat. When my plate arrived strewn with bacon I quickly called the waitress back to let her know there had been a mistake. She looked over at me and started to say something along the line of "well can't you just push...." and she trailed off. Probably because she had noticed the look on my face. So she went into the kitchen and returned with a side plate, she then proceeded to pick the bacon off of my plate with her fingers right in front of my face! I was shocked and figured if that's how things worked around there I better keep my mouth shut. I obediently started to eat my breakfast under the pitying looks of the other customers. I ate quickly to escape the restaurant and was thankful to get back on my bike!
In no time at all I could see the big confederation bridge looming in front of me. I pulled off at the last exit to look for the shuttle that takes pedestrians and cyclists across the bridge. I pulled into the parking lot and was surprised to see 8 other touring bikes already there! I soon met their owners, 8 friendly women who were setting off on a girls weekend which they told me included, PEI tip to tip on their bikes, good restaurants, good wine and good company! Sounded pretty good to me! We chatted as we waited for the shuttle and soon realized that one of the ladies and I had a mutual acquaintance, Margot with a "T" from Pender. What a small world!
As we crossed the bridge and I caught my first glimpses of PEI I knew instantly I would love it! Maybe it was because it's an island, maybe because it's so pretty but whatever the reason I could tell right away it was going to be a great couple of days. I said goodbye to the ladies on the other side and took off to get a few pictures of the bridge before heading towards Charlottetown. About 15km later I stopped, partially because I had seen a sign for ice cream and partially because I wanted advice on directions. Both were given freely! I left Anna's kitchen with my instant love of the island reconfirmed. A free double scoop in my belly and route advice in my head I set out again. I was surprised to encounter hill upon hill upon hill and I was very happy to reach Nancy and Gareth's and finally be done with the hills! I was warmly welcomed and we enjoyed a delicious dinner while getting to know one another. Later that evening while chatting we discovered that the friendly gentleman who had given me route advice was none other then their good friend Charlie! Proof again of what a small world it really is!
I really enjoyed my stay in Fredericton both with Jessica and Anne. Big thanks to you both for welcoming me into your homes! After my rest day I set off feeling revived and especially energetic thanks to a hearty breakfast of wheatberry cereal and yogurt. I set off under drizzly skies and with the wind in my face. It was slow going but on the plus side the storm was getting pushed behind me and there were sunny skies in sight! I rode alongside the river and enjoyed the relatively flat road and the stunning fall colours! Just over half way I stopped for lunch at one of those convenience store/restaurant/gas stations that constitutes as a town in New Brunswick! There is where I began my overindulgent day with 2 slices of thickly buttered homemade delicious banana bread. Back on the road for jut a few minutes and I noticed a sign for homemade icecream coming up at the next exit. I deliberated stopping as I approached...I told myself if I could see the shop from the highway I would stop. If not I would continue on. When I reached the exit, no shop in view. So then I said to myself "well I will just take the exit and if I can't see it before the on-ramp I will just keep going" the on-ramp came and went and I was still on the quest. It was clear I was losing a battle with my tummy and so I turned the corner and just a few hundred metres down the road I saw the sign. It was homemade and it was delicious. I should have known I wouldn't have been able to pass a sign for ice cream! An hour after my impromptu ice cream stop and I had reached my destination of the day, another convenience store/restaurant/gas station only this time there was a motel too! Almost a city! Since I arrived so early in the day I treated my bike to a good wash down and even cleaned my chain! By the end I was filthy with grease but my bike was shining! I had a quick dinner and then headed over to the restaurant for dinner where the only vegetarian option was an egg salad sandwich. Less then satisfied with my dinner I had a large slice of carrot cake for dessert to make up for the fact and thus finished my day with another spot of indulgence but ohhh how it was worth it!
Middle of Nowhere -> Moncton
I took my time getting ready that morning as I had a short day ahead of me. Although, I was rather rudely awakened at 8 that morning by someone trying to barge into my room! Luckily I had deadbolted the door and after a few tries they gave up and I was able to go back to sleep for another hour.
It was drizzling again that morning as I set off but the torrential storm held off for the time being. About 30km down the road I noticed a distinct wobble on my bike which never warned of anything good and sure enough when I looked down I noticed that my front tire was flat! I pulled over and started pulling out my tools. As I did the heavens opened and it began to pour! Great timing! Then, to make matters worse I discovered that my pump was missing. I quickly threw everything back in my panier so it wouldn't get any wetter and started walking as I contemplated what to do. I hadn't seen an exit since I had started that morning so I thought there might be one coming up and fingers crossed it would have a gas station. 20 minutes later I was still walking, soaked to the bone, and no gas station in sight. That's when I noticed a car on the shoulder backing up towards me. When we were parallel the man inside unrolled his window to ask me if I wanted a ride. He probably thought I was nuts as I stood in the downpour and considered his offer. I hesitated and then asked how far it was to the next gas station. At this point the rain had reached monsoon levels and the drops were stinging as they hit my skin. He figured the closest gas station was about 30km away. I realized with a sinking sensation that unless I wanted to be walking till way past dark I was going to have to get in his car. I had to break my vow of a car free journey and take the ride. It was amazing how fast the distance was eaten up by the car. Travelling for so long by bike and a car felt unreasonably fast. John dropped me and my soaking gear off in Salisbury where I fixed my flat and had lunch while trying to decide if I had time to ride back to where I got the flat and then turn around and make it to Moncton before dark. Sadly I realized it was unfeasible and that I would have to forgo those 36km.
It continued to pour as I made my way to Moncton. I pulled up at Vincent's (my warmshowers host) looking very much like a drowned rat! A shower and the use of a dryer and I felt human again. We went to the Pumphouse Brewery for dinner and I had my first experience with blueberry beer, complete with real blueberries floating in it!
Moncton -> Sackville
First thing first! I went straight to a bike shop to buy a new pump! I did not want to have a repeat of the stranded situation of the day before!
The ride to Sackville was uneventful and slow. I was battling a ferocious headwind but at least the sun was shining. I arrived at Emily's (my couchsurfing host) around 2pm and the two of us spent the afternoon cooking a vegetarian moussaka for dinner that night. To be honest Emily mostly cooked and I mostly talked but I will take credit for the custard which I diligently stirred for an hour straight before it finally cooperated and set. It was fun to be in a houseful of students again and I missed school just a little bit until they all dissapeared back into their bedrooms to work on papers while I popped a movie in the DVD player :)
Sackville -> Charlottetown
The ride started with a few dead ends that morning thanks to my GPS misleading me. Eventually I found my way across the highway and onto the road heading north towards the bridge. I stopped for a second breakfast in Port Elgin, the last town before the bridge. I ordered the breakfast special but made sure to let the waitress know I didn't want any meat. When my plate arrived strewn with bacon I quickly called the waitress back to let her know there had been a mistake. She looked over at me and started to say something along the line of "well can't you just push...." and she trailed off. Probably because she had noticed the look on my face. So she went into the kitchen and returned with a side plate, she then proceeded to pick the bacon off of my plate with her fingers right in front of my face! I was shocked and figured if that's how things worked around there I better keep my mouth shut. I obediently started to eat my breakfast under the pitying looks of the other customers. I ate quickly to escape the restaurant and was thankful to get back on my bike!
In no time at all I could see the big confederation bridge looming in front of me. I pulled off at the last exit to look for the shuttle that takes pedestrians and cyclists across the bridge. I pulled into the parking lot and was surprised to see 8 other touring bikes already there! I soon met their owners, 8 friendly women who were setting off on a girls weekend which they told me included, PEI tip to tip on their bikes, good restaurants, good wine and good company! Sounded pretty good to me! We chatted as we waited for the shuttle and soon realized that one of the ladies and I had a mutual acquaintance, Margot with a "T" from Pender. What a small world!
As we crossed the bridge and I caught my first glimpses of PEI I knew instantly I would love it! Maybe it was because it's an island, maybe because it's so pretty but whatever the reason I could tell right away it was going to be a great couple of days. I said goodbye to the ladies on the other side and took off to get a few pictures of the bridge before heading towards Charlottetown. About 15km later I stopped, partially because I had seen a sign for ice cream and partially because I wanted advice on directions. Both were given freely! I left Anna's kitchen with my instant love of the island reconfirmed. A free double scoop in my belly and route advice in my head I set out again. I was surprised to encounter hill upon hill upon hill and I was very happy to reach Nancy and Gareth's and finally be done with the hills! I was warmly welcomed and we enjoyed a delicious dinner while getting to know one another. Later that evening while chatting we discovered that the friendly gentleman who had given me route advice was none other then their good friend Charlie! Proof again of what a small world it really is!
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Days 67 & 68 Those cold and frosty mornings
Grand Falls -> Woodstock
Woke up shivering in my tent, it was freezing out! The rain overnight had cleared and therefore there was no longer an insulating cloud cover and it was chilly! and windy! I finally forced myself out of my sleeping bag and shedded the many layers of clothing I had worn to bed to get dressed. Tearing down camp was not fun as my fingers were soon numb and I couldn't get my tent undone with no feeling in my hands. Finally I was all packed up and ready to hit the road, I couldn't wait to get moving and hopefully warm up with some exertion. I didn't have to wait long, as soon as I left the campsite I was climbing a huge hill. My body was quickly warmed and just my feet and hands remained chilled. Broke out the gloves for the first time that morning!
I had a great tail wind for the most part of the day so even though it was cold at least I was going quickly and it wouldn't be too long of a day. My spanish podcasts kept me entertained until lunchtime at which point I couldn't take anymore of the cheesy intro jingle and had to take a break. There weren't really any towns to speak of for most of the day and since I was down on food supplies lunch consisted of a muffin and power bar. Gone are the days when we used to have a big spread for lunch and dinner!
I've noticed a few interesting things about New Brunswick so far, things that are different then any other province we have come through.
1. They all have these big wooden trunks at the end of their driveways. I thought maybe they were for packages in the post or then I thought of dowry trunks but after having asked a local I found out they are just garbage storage trunks. Much nicer then the big bins the rest of us use!
2. There are sooooooo many churches! Every little town has at least and Anglican, Baptist and Presbyterian church and some of them have even more!
3. Lots of the houses have metal stars on the outside, usually attached to the siding near the front door. I had no idea what this symbolized and again thought up many different reasons they could be there but when I asked it turns out they are trendy right now and solely decorative. So much for all my crazy ideas!
4. Lots and lots of dogs which really like to chase/bark at me. I'm sure most of them mean no harm but when two big dogs are chasing you as fast as they can run and I can pedal it's a little frightening! It's happened a few times over the last couple of days and i'm paranoid they are going to bite me and/or get caught under my wheel and cause a big accident both to me and them. Luckily most of the dogs are tied up so the most they can do is bark.
Anyways getting back on track, I got into Woodstock pretty early in the afternoon and had time to go to the library before checking into my "hostel". Note the quotation marks around "hostel" what a wierd place it was. There was no reception, you had to call to be let in, instead of some young foreign person working it was an older local woman, all the rooms were singles, it was in the basement of an apartment building, when the other residents heard I was a "traveller" they were surprised. Apparently it was more of a residence for people in between houses, in between jobs, or recently immigrated to Canada. I spent most of the time in my room. I must admit though, wierd as it was I had a fabulous sleep!
Woodstock -> Fredericton
Another very cold morning on the road but this time it was clear and sunny and warmed up fairly quickly. I decided to take a back road into the city instead of following the highway. I thought it would be a short cut. In distance it was for sure but time wise I'm not so sure since it was not very well paved it was pretty slow going for the first 40km and lots and lots of hills! Again almost no towns along the way but at least this time I had bought groceries in Woodstock and had food for lunch! The ride was pretty uneventful, I think I may have seen a moose but not quite sure, some sort of large animal from quite far away can be anything if you use your imagination a little :)
I got into Fredericton around 4pm surprised to see how little it really is! Apparently the population is only around 60,000. I spent last night at Jessica's, a girl I contacted through couchsurfing.org. We built a fire and hung out telling stories and making s'mores, a good Saturday night! Today I'm taking my first rest day since Ottawa and then tomorrow it's back on the road again!
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Days 65&66 New Brunswick and the last time zone!
Riviere-du-loup - Edmundston 123km
I had a bit of sleep-in in the morning, enjoying the comfy hostel bed. My roomie Julia from Germany and I went downstairs to enjoy the breakfast included in our stay! Somehow free breakfast just always tastes better! I packed up and said bye to the new friends I had made the night before. Back on the road I turned south, away from the river and towards New Brunswick! The road was pretty decent for the first while although the cross wind was really strong, definitely a 2 hands on kind of day! Luckily the wind died down but that was when I hit all of the construction, and the stinky farms :( The road was bad so I had to go quite slowly and it was very bumpy and to make matters worse it smelled like poo. I kept on going for ever it felt like since I didn't want to stop for lunch until the smell went away. I have this thing about eating when it smells, ever since someone told me everything you smell your actually eating tiny particles of. In this case it would have been manure, no thanks! Finally things got better smell wise and road wise and I found a rest stop for lunch. Not to long after it started to rain but luckily just a light drizzle nothing to worry about. I hit the New Brunswick border at about quarter past 4 and promptly lost an hour due to the time change. I spent some time in the info centre looking up campgrounds and checking my email. By the time I was out again in was just before 6 and pouring! I started looking for the closest campground but when I reached the exit it had a big closed sign over it, darn! I continued on and the rain abated and I even briefly saw a rainbow! I stopped in Edmunston for some groceries and then continued south of town where I knew there was another campground. Luckily this one was open and even had a elevated pumphouse under which I was able to pitch my tent to stay out of the worst of the rain. I ate my dinner of granola and yogurt in bed before rolling over to go to sleep.
Edmunston - Grand Falls 65km???
So as you probably have gathered from the question marks after my distance yet another cyclometer has bitten the dust. I give up, that's the last one! Partially because I hate replacing them but mostly because there isn't another MEC until Halifax!
I slept in this morning and when I woke up the sun was streaming through my tent! Yay! I didn't manage to get out of the campground until after 11 which didn't really matter since I knew the day would be short.
Pushed along by a tailwind I was covering ground at a great speed! I was listening to my Spanish podcasts and practicing my pronunciation as I pedaled. Luckily there weren't too many people on the streets to hear me butchering the Spanish, repeating over and over "Esta es mi hermana, se llama Raquelle" That kept me occupied right up until I reached the campground, or until I saw the sign actually. It turns out that the address had been a little wrong and the campground wasn't on the highway but on a side road which ran parallel. I hopped off of my bike and decided to pull/drag it across the ditch, over the hill and across the next ditch instead of going back to a crossroad. It wasn't too difficult and I'm sure I probably saved at least 2 minutes! I've set up camp and have come back into town to use the Internet and try and find somewhere for dinner! Tomorrow I am heading for Woodstock!
I had a bit of sleep-in in the morning, enjoying the comfy hostel bed. My roomie Julia from Germany and I went downstairs to enjoy the breakfast included in our stay! Somehow free breakfast just always tastes better! I packed up and said bye to the new friends I had made the night before. Back on the road I turned south, away from the river and towards New Brunswick! The road was pretty decent for the first while although the cross wind was really strong, definitely a 2 hands on kind of day! Luckily the wind died down but that was when I hit all of the construction, and the stinky farms :( The road was bad so I had to go quite slowly and it was very bumpy and to make matters worse it smelled like poo. I kept on going for ever it felt like since I didn't want to stop for lunch until the smell went away. I have this thing about eating when it smells, ever since someone told me everything you smell your actually eating tiny particles of. In this case it would have been manure, no thanks! Finally things got better smell wise and road wise and I found a rest stop for lunch. Not to long after it started to rain but luckily just a light drizzle nothing to worry about. I hit the New Brunswick border at about quarter past 4 and promptly lost an hour due to the time change. I spent some time in the info centre looking up campgrounds and checking my email. By the time I was out again in was just before 6 and pouring! I started looking for the closest campground but when I reached the exit it had a big closed sign over it, darn! I continued on and the rain abated and I even briefly saw a rainbow! I stopped in Edmunston for some groceries and then continued south of town where I knew there was another campground. Luckily this one was open and even had a elevated pumphouse under which I was able to pitch my tent to stay out of the worst of the rain. I ate my dinner of granola and yogurt in bed before rolling over to go to sleep.
Edmunston - Grand Falls 65km???
So as you probably have gathered from the question marks after my distance yet another cyclometer has bitten the dust. I give up, that's the last one! Partially because I hate replacing them but mostly because there isn't another MEC until Halifax!
I slept in this morning and when I woke up the sun was streaming through my tent! Yay! I didn't manage to get out of the campground until after 11 which didn't really matter since I knew the day would be short.
Pushed along by a tailwind I was covering ground at a great speed! I was listening to my Spanish podcasts and practicing my pronunciation as I pedaled. Luckily there weren't too many people on the streets to hear me butchering the Spanish, repeating over and over "Esta es mi hermana, se llama Raquelle" That kept me occupied right up until I reached the campground, or until I saw the sign actually. It turns out that the address had been a little wrong and the campground wasn't on the highway but on a side road which ran parallel. I hopped off of my bike and decided to pull/drag it across the ditch, over the hill and across the next ditch instead of going back to a crossroad. It wasn't too difficult and I'm sure I probably saved at least 2 minutes! I've set up camp and have come back into town to use the Internet and try and find somewhere for dinner! Tomorrow I am heading for Woodstock!
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Days 61-64 Au bord de la Ste. Lawrence
Montreal -> Trois Rivieres 150km
I left Montreal guided by Giselle, she took me to the bike path so I wouldn`t get lost like the day before. Back on La Route Verte I headed out of the city. The path was wonderful nothing reminscent of the stressful day before! The only unfortunate part of the path is that because it stays off of the main road I was zigzagging all around which added time and km to the day. Once I was out of Montreal`s industrial area the scenerey was gorgeous, I followed along the St. Lawrence and then headed inland through the Mauricie region. It was slow going since I was battling a slight headwind and I didn`t arrive in Trois-Rivieres until the sun was setting. I decided that 150km definitley deserves a poutine so I had one. I ordered the small and when it arrived it looked large enough to feed four! I will never understand how the quebecqois can polish one of those off. The guys beside me were ploughing their way through larges. I took my leftovers to go and even though cold poutine isn`t very tasty I ate it for two more meals to avoid being wasteful! After dinner I rode the last few km to Caro and Matt`s place, the couchsurfers with whom I was spending the night. We had lots of fun playing an english trivia game which resulted in lots of laughing and misunderstanding because of the language barrier!
Trois-Rivieres -> Quebec 160km
My longest day ever! It was the equivalent of a century ride (100 miles) and I think once was enough, I will stick to shorter days or less weight from here on out! Luckily I had a tailwind so although the distance was farther I actually made better time than the day before. I rode alongside the river again following La Route Verte. The weather was perfect and there was hardly any traffic. I passed some familiar sights from the last time I had been in Trois-Rivieres as I pedaled out of town. One thing I have noticed since being in Quebec is the huge number of casse-croutes, otherwise know as fast-food. The big difference between Quebec and rest of Canada though is that everywhere else you see the giant arches or some other chain but here they are individually owned and family operated. I`m sure they probably do a mean poutine but being all poutined out I stopped for an icecream instead. I rode into Quebec about 5:30pm that afternoon in search of a hostel in the old part of the city. I missed my turn off and ended up in who knows where but being lost ended up being a blessing in disguise because as I was plugging away at my GPS I received a phone call bearing news of accommodation for the night! A friend of a friend had offered to put me up! Even better she lived straight back from the way I had come so instead of figuring out new directions all I had to do was turn around! Josée and her family were great and I was instantly jealous of her bilingual children who switched between languages without even realizing it!
Quebec -> Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies 132km
I started the day off with a wrong turn which caused me to unneccarily go up the steepest hill I had seen all week! maybe next time I will check the map a little more carefully! I got back on track and headed for the bridge to cross over to the south side of the St. Lawrence. I had a great view of vieux Quebec and château Frontenac as I rode along the busy bike path. Eventually I left the chaos of the city behind me. I rode through many picturesque villages, many of which were hundreds of years old! The rest stops along the road were spaced perfectly, need water? a lunch spot? a bathroom? Pop! They would appear just as I needed them! It was great! For anyone deciding on their next Canadian vacation destination I would highly reccommend this area! I stayed with a family that I contacted through the website warmshowers.org (a website linking up touring cyclists) they were great, 2 new kittens had recently become a part of the family and were adorable! The kids didn`t speak english so it was a good opportunity to practice my french!
Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies -> Rivière-du-loup 82km
The wind was so strong this morning I barely had to pedal, if I had a sail I would have been here by noon! Either way it was a fun and easy ride! I got rained on a little but had dried off before stopping for lunch so it wasn`t a big deal. I would officially say I have reached the sea today, I can smell the salt on the air! Although I think it is still officially considered the St. Lawrence the water is salty and there are huge tides. Eel fishing is a big thing here and I have been told I should try the smoked eel it`s supposed to be delicious, I think I may just take their word on it! I was in Rivière-du-loup before 2pm today, a change from the past few days that`s for sure! I am staying at a very nice hostel which seems to be quite empty and have just found the library which is where I am now! Tomorrow I was going to have a rest day but I think I may just carry on instead. Heading for New Brunswick!
I left Montreal guided by Giselle, she took me to the bike path so I wouldn`t get lost like the day before. Back on La Route Verte I headed out of the city. The path was wonderful nothing reminscent of the stressful day before! The only unfortunate part of the path is that because it stays off of the main road I was zigzagging all around which added time and km to the day. Once I was out of Montreal`s industrial area the scenerey was gorgeous, I followed along the St. Lawrence and then headed inland through the Mauricie region. It was slow going since I was battling a slight headwind and I didn`t arrive in Trois-Rivieres until the sun was setting. I decided that 150km definitley deserves a poutine so I had one. I ordered the small and when it arrived it looked large enough to feed four! I will never understand how the quebecqois can polish one of those off. The guys beside me were ploughing their way through larges. I took my leftovers to go and even though cold poutine isn`t very tasty I ate it for two more meals to avoid being wasteful! After dinner I rode the last few km to Caro and Matt`s place, the couchsurfers with whom I was spending the night. We had lots of fun playing an english trivia game which resulted in lots of laughing and misunderstanding because of the language barrier!
Trois-Rivieres -> Quebec 160km
My longest day ever! It was the equivalent of a century ride (100 miles) and I think once was enough, I will stick to shorter days or less weight from here on out! Luckily I had a tailwind so although the distance was farther I actually made better time than the day before. I rode alongside the river again following La Route Verte. The weather was perfect and there was hardly any traffic. I passed some familiar sights from the last time I had been in Trois-Rivieres as I pedaled out of town. One thing I have noticed since being in Quebec is the huge number of casse-croutes, otherwise know as fast-food. The big difference between Quebec and rest of Canada though is that everywhere else you see the giant arches or some other chain but here they are individually owned and family operated. I`m sure they probably do a mean poutine but being all poutined out I stopped for an icecream instead. I rode into Quebec about 5:30pm that afternoon in search of a hostel in the old part of the city. I missed my turn off and ended up in who knows where but being lost ended up being a blessing in disguise because as I was plugging away at my GPS I received a phone call bearing news of accommodation for the night! A friend of a friend had offered to put me up! Even better she lived straight back from the way I had come so instead of figuring out new directions all I had to do was turn around! Josée and her family were great and I was instantly jealous of her bilingual children who switched between languages without even realizing it!
Quebec -> Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies 132km
I started the day off with a wrong turn which caused me to unneccarily go up the steepest hill I had seen all week! maybe next time I will check the map a little more carefully! I got back on track and headed for the bridge to cross over to the south side of the St. Lawrence. I had a great view of vieux Quebec and château Frontenac as I rode along the busy bike path. Eventually I left the chaos of the city behind me. I rode through many picturesque villages, many of which were hundreds of years old! The rest stops along the road were spaced perfectly, need water? a lunch spot? a bathroom? Pop! They would appear just as I needed them! It was great! For anyone deciding on their next Canadian vacation destination I would highly reccommend this area! I stayed with a family that I contacted through the website warmshowers.org (a website linking up touring cyclists) they were great, 2 new kittens had recently become a part of the family and were adorable! The kids didn`t speak english so it was a good opportunity to practice my french!
Saint-Roch-des-Aulnaies -> Rivière-du-loup 82km
The wind was so strong this morning I barely had to pedal, if I had a sail I would have been here by noon! Either way it was a fun and easy ride! I got rained on a little but had dried off before stopping for lunch so it wasn`t a big deal. I would officially say I have reached the sea today, I can smell the salt on the air! Although I think it is still officially considered the St. Lawrence the water is salty and there are huge tides. Eel fishing is a big thing here and I have been told I should try the smoked eel it`s supposed to be delicious, I think I may just take their word on it! I was in Rivière-du-loup before 2pm today, a change from the past few days that`s for sure! I am staying at a very nice hostel which seems to be quite empty and have just found the library which is where I am now! Tomorrow I was going to have a rest day but I think I may just carry on instead. Heading for New Brunswick!
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Days 59&60 Bienvenue au Quebec
Ottawa - L'Original 100km
My first day striking out on my own! Leaving Ottwas was nice, the roads all had bike paths and were not too busy. I stayed off of the main highway for the majority of the day and had really good riding conditions. With a bit of a tail wind I made great time getting into town and found the campground with no problem. In town while I was grocery shopping I met numerous friendly locals all interested in my ride and supportive of the cause! I had to use my french for the first time at the campground even though I was still in Ontario the caretaker spoke no English. I pitched my tent and had my cold dinner, (no stove now that Malkolm isn't with me) done just in time to watch the sunset over the river. Bedtime is coming earlier and earlier these days as the sun sets earlier. That night I think I was tucked into my sleeping bag by 8:30 luckily I had a book from my care package from Nao and Liis to keep me company!
L'Original - Montreal 110km
I woke up with the intentions of getting an early start that morning but when I heard the pitter patter of rain drops on my tent all good intentions flew out the window as I buried myself deeper into my sleeping bag in hopes of waiting out the rain. Luckily it stopped quite shortly after and I was able to get almost ready to go before it started again. I waited out the drizzle under the overhang of the bathrooms while reading the local paper and as soon as the rain ceased I pulled down my tent quickly and got packed up and on the road. That was it for the rain that day and soon after the sun was shining. I crosses the river into Quebec and immediatley found La Route Verte, the fabulous bike route all through Quebec. I managed to follow the path as is travelled along side the river for most of the day. As I neared Montreal traffic got heavier and heavier, unfortunately I was arriving in Friday rush hour. I decided to stop at MEC to return yet another cyclometer and that was my one big mistake. Traffic was crazy, my phone was dead and I was lost after that. I rode till I found a pay phone and called my host, Michel, and got directions. I was told that I was pretty much as far away from where I wanted to be as possible :( Good directions, a close-call with a school bus and an hour later I had made it to Michel's but unfortunately he had already left for work, his girlfriend Giselle was there to show me around and she was a most gracious hostess! Big thanks to both of them for their hospitality! I slept very well that night and the alarm sounded as usual too early the next morning.
My first day striking out on my own! Leaving Ottwas was nice, the roads all had bike paths and were not too busy. I stayed off of the main highway for the majority of the day and had really good riding conditions. With a bit of a tail wind I made great time getting into town and found the campground with no problem. In town while I was grocery shopping I met numerous friendly locals all interested in my ride and supportive of the cause! I had to use my french for the first time at the campground even though I was still in Ontario the caretaker spoke no English. I pitched my tent and had my cold dinner, (no stove now that Malkolm isn't with me) done just in time to watch the sunset over the river. Bedtime is coming earlier and earlier these days as the sun sets earlier. That night I think I was tucked into my sleeping bag by 8:30 luckily I had a book from my care package from Nao and Liis to keep me company!
L'Original - Montreal 110km
I woke up with the intentions of getting an early start that morning but when I heard the pitter patter of rain drops on my tent all good intentions flew out the window as I buried myself deeper into my sleeping bag in hopes of waiting out the rain. Luckily it stopped quite shortly after and I was able to get almost ready to go before it started again. I waited out the drizzle under the overhang of the bathrooms while reading the local paper and as soon as the rain ceased I pulled down my tent quickly and got packed up and on the road. That was it for the rain that day and soon after the sun was shining. I crosses the river into Quebec and immediatley found La Route Verte, the fabulous bike route all through Quebec. I managed to follow the path as is travelled along side the river for most of the day. As I neared Montreal traffic got heavier and heavier, unfortunately I was arriving in Friday rush hour. I decided to stop at MEC to return yet another cyclometer and that was my one big mistake. Traffic was crazy, my phone was dead and I was lost after that. I rode till I found a pay phone and called my host, Michel, and got directions. I was told that I was pretty much as far away from where I wanted to be as possible :( Good directions, a close-call with a school bus and an hour later I had made it to Michel's but unfortunately he had already left for work, his girlfriend Giselle was there to show me around and she was a most gracious hostess! Big thanks to both of them for their hospitality! I slept very well that night and the alarm sounded as usual too early the next morning.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
To Ottawa and beyond!
My time in Ottawa passed quickly. On Tuesday we held a rally on parliament hill which was well attended and very successful in terms of politicians and citizens alike being in attendance. I was put a little on the spot when I was asked to give a speech without any forwarning! Luckily Malkolm had known in advance and written something up so I said a few things a greatfully passed the mic on to him!
I passed out the remaining postcards that Nadia and I had been carrying since day 1 and talked to lots of people who were interested in the trip we had just completed. You can check out some pictures of the event here. We also got to meet the group from Quebec who had just cycled in that morning.
In the afternoon we all rode together from Embassy to Embassy in search of Canada's missing climate action plan. We heard from the Dutch Ambassador as well as from a representative from the Danish Embassy. By then we were all starving so a bunch of us headed over to a local cafe where Kesten's cousin had kindly offered to treat us to lunch. The MTV news girl joined us for lunch and conducted a few more interviews while we waited for our food so keep an eyeout for pedal for the planet on MTV canada's news airing sometime this week!
Yesterday I finally reached a decision about my plans for after Ottawa, nothing like leaving it till the last minute! I am going to continue riding on to Halifax! I spent the whole day planning route, searching for accommodations and getting supplies. I am going to post my itinerary below and like before I will indicate whether or not I have somewhere to stay and if you or anyone you know would be interested in hosting me for the night please let me know! As the weather gets colder a warm house to sleep in is more and more welcome!
> Sept 17 - Ottawa - Hawkesbury YES
> Sept 18 - Hawkesbury - Montreal YES
> Sept 19 Montreal - Trois Rivieres NO
> Sept 20 Trois Riviers - Quebec YES
> Sept 21 Quebec - Saint-Aubert NO
> Sept 22 Saint-Aubert - Riviere-du-loup YES
> Sept 23 Rest day in Riviere-du-loup YES
> Sept 24 Riviere-du-loup - Edmundston NO
> Sept 25 Edmundston - Grandfalls NO
> Sept 26 Grandfalls - Woodstock NO
> Sept 27 Woodstock - Fredericton YES
> Sept 28 Fredericton - Waterborough NO
> Sept 29 Waterborough - Moncton YES
> Sept 30 Moncton - Port Elgin NO
> Oct 1 Port Elgin - Charlottetown YES
> Oct 2 Rest day in Charlottetown YES
> Oct 3 Charlottetown - Caribou NO
> Oct 4 Caribou - Truro NO
> Oct 5 Truro - Halifax YES
I passed out the remaining postcards that Nadia and I had been carrying since day 1 and talked to lots of people who were interested in the trip we had just completed. You can check out some pictures of the event here. We also got to meet the group from Quebec who had just cycled in that morning.
In the afternoon we all rode together from Embassy to Embassy in search of Canada's missing climate action plan. We heard from the Dutch Ambassador as well as from a representative from the Danish Embassy. By then we were all starving so a bunch of us headed over to a local cafe where Kesten's cousin had kindly offered to treat us to lunch. The MTV news girl joined us for lunch and conducted a few more interviews while we waited for our food so keep an eyeout for pedal for the planet on MTV canada's news airing sometime this week!
Yesterday I finally reached a decision about my plans for after Ottawa, nothing like leaving it till the last minute! I am going to continue riding on to Halifax! I spent the whole day planning route, searching for accommodations and getting supplies. I am going to post my itinerary below and like before I will indicate whether or not I have somewhere to stay and if you or anyone you know would be interested in hosting me for the night please let me know! As the weather gets colder a warm house to sleep in is more and more welcome!
> Sept 17 - Ottawa - Hawkesbury YES
> Sept 18 - Hawkesbury - Montreal YES
> Sept 19 Montreal - Trois Rivieres NO
> Sept 20 Trois Riviers - Quebec YES
> Sept 21 Quebec - Saint-Aubert NO
> Sept 22 Saint-Aubert - Riviere-du-loup YES
> Sept 23 Rest day in Riviere-du-loup YES
> Sept 24 Riviere-du-loup - Edmundston NO
> Sept 25 Edmundston - Grandfalls NO
> Sept 26 Grandfalls - Woodstock NO
> Sept 27 Woodstock - Fredericton YES
> Sept 28 Fredericton - Waterborough NO
> Sept 29 Waterborough - Moncton YES
> Sept 30 Moncton - Port Elgin NO
> Oct 1 Port Elgin - Charlottetown YES
> Oct 2 Rest day in Charlottetown YES
> Oct 3 Charlottetown - Caribou NO
> Oct 4 Caribou - Truro NO
> Oct 5 Truro - Halifax YES
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